We left Fes at sunrise headed into the mountains. The trip to Erfoud is about 300 miles. We were told it would take about 9 hours with many stops for learning and discovery, lunch and bathroom breaks. Of note and importance there is nearly always a bathroom attendant who controls the availability of toilet paper and expects a tip. Abdou has devised a system where we can give him money for the trip segment and he tips the attendant for all of us. It works well.
Our first stop was in Ifran which is the Moroccan Switzerland. The town is less than an hour from Fes. It is a popular spot to boat for locals. We had a 30 minute stop to walk around as well as to use the bathrooms. Some people bought cookies to share with us from the French cafe.
We stopped briefly in a forest area where there were monkeys that were friendly enough to take peanuts or dates from your hand. Local boys were happy to sell handfuls of the nuts and dates. Of course we bargained for the price.
We continued on climbing into the mid Atlas range. We stopped at a nomad encampment. Abdou knows the couple who live there as sheep herders. He buys lamb from them. Aziz and Mina live in a building which has stone walls covered with heavy plastic and a roof that has some wood beams with plastic covering and stones to hold the plastic down. We were invited to see the inside of their home. It has 2 rooms, a bedroom and a kitchen/dining room. It was cozy inside with a small stove for heat.
Aziz was feeding his sheep as we arrived. He invited us to come into his “barn” where the sheep were busy eating a mixture of ground corn and wheat chaff. He then allowed us to hold a one week old baby sheep who cried for its mom until being reunited.
They also have several atlas mountain dogs, Aidi which is a recognized breed. A curious pup came to look at us. They are good shepherding dogs.
As we drove towards our lunch destination, Abdou insisted we stop briefly in a “smoky town” where the street is lined with vendors offering grilled meats. First we visited the butcher who cut up lamb chops to be grilled. The butcher is a separate business from the grill/restaurant although they are side by side. The meat is placed in a flat grill basket that is clamped down and set to cook. After cooking, salt and cumin get sprinkled on the meat as you wish. They also had some very hot grilled peppers. I needed some serious liquid help to dampen the heat.
Our lunch stop was in Midelt in a hotel that looked quite large. Apparently their main business is in the restaurant with tourists on their way to or from the mountains. We had a very nice vegetable pumpkin soup followed by herb stuffed, pan fried trout. This is an apple growing region. So dessert was apple tart with rosewater. And off we went toward the high Atlas Mountains.
Our bus climbed up to 6,000 feet. The road was winding with plenty of cars and truck going both ways. It was impossible to pass in most places so we made our way slowly towards our destination. Some parts of the road were smooth and relatively new. Other areas were under construction.
We stopped to notice the big change in architecture. A Berber village has adobe construction with towers at the four corners of the house. There are small peaks along the walls and small windows. A few children were playing near the large house. We waved at them and they approached us cautiously. I took their picture and gave them 1 dirham which is about 10 cents. Another person had done the same. Abdou said we shouldn’t give money because the kids will begin to skip school and stand by the road. Then our bus driver gave them cookies. So it goes.
We finally reached our destination in Erfoud which is toward the desert. We are the only people staying at the hotel. We got our rooms and had a party in my room pre dinner. Great group of women who have bonded and we are enjoying so many conversations. We continued the party after dinner but it’s time to sleep. Tomorrow we go into the desert. Can’t wait.
The Adventures of Anne 